Kyoto Unagi Okowa (eel)

Every year the Kyoto Design Association holds the Kyoto Design Award, celebrating design excellence in a variety of field from architecture to package design. The 2011 Grand Prize winner was Nanasada co. ltd's Unagi Okowa packaging. (Okowa is rice mixed with a variety of vegetables and ingredients.) Beautifully packaged in bite-sized portions, the paper case looks like traditional wooden boxes that sushi used to come in. This version of okowa is with unagi (eel) and was absolutely delicious. Great for picnics! 

Shozan-kaku Ryotei (Kyo-ryori Kaiseki)

The expression "out of this world" takes on a different meaning at Shozan-kaku 松山閣. Located a good 30 minute drive from downtown Kyoto in the northwest mountains, the restaurant is situated literally on the side of a mountain. After entering the gate, the strolling path under the maple and cherry trees, immediately lets you forget the world you left behind. EDK featured a "autumn yuba lunch" this month, visiting Shozan-kaku's own tofu and yuba factory and enjoying a kaiseki lunch featuring tofu fresh out of the factory. Highlights were not just the fabulous kaiseki cuisine with sake, but also the autumn leaves that were in peak colours. 

With owner Matsuyama-san (bottom right)

View of mountains along path

Hiki-age yuba (fresh yuba) in traditional "oke" bucket

Ode to the Bento

When you mention "bento" to ex-pats in Japan, most will think of 399 yen fried chicken boxes at the local convenience (and there are many!). Yet, there is a whole different level to bento, the traditional kaiseki bento. Like a kaiseki meal, these bento usually include items that are prepared in a variety of ways: raw (sashimi), boiled, fried, pickled, etc... This one pictured above sells for 2,800 yen from Rakusei Okada in Western Kyoto. Definitely no "conbini" bento" No plastic here. All real ceramic ware delivered and picked up later. A feast for the eyes and mouth!    

Regions of taste (French)

Carrying on from Amore Kiyamachi, here's another restaurant that doesn't put up any pretenses. Situated in a modestly decorated space, French restaurant Region (Takatsuji/Takakura) is all about the food. Classically presented with generous portions, each dish is packed with flavour. Best of all, the prices are won't damage your wallet. There is even a dinner course for under 3,000 yen. Owned by a husband and wife team, the place has an intimate vibe with reliable service. Excellent wine as well. Classic French dishes.

Amore Amore (Italian)

Italian food in Kyoto can be either too stuffy or too cheap, like a family restaurant. Amore Kiyamachi (Kiyamachi/Takatsuji) strikes the perfect balance. Complete with a private verandah facing the Kamogawa rice, the front room is more casual with stools and tables for large groups or those popping in for a snack. The back room offers more privacy yet still has an edge with the rough white tables. There is also a large room upstairs for private parties. The food is also no nonsense, no fuss. Definitely recommend the appetizer platter (shown above), conveniently portioned according to number of guests. This is so Kyoto in a way, the insistence of variety and quality over quantity. The pizzas are wood fired and some of the best in Kyoto. 

So hip it hurts (hotel dining)

The concept of boutique hotels, believe it or not, is still relatively new to Kyoto. Often called "designer hotels" they are slowly springing up in the city. The latest is Ante Room, just opened in April of this year. Like many of the hottest art galleries in the city -- Kodama gallery, Koyama Tomio, Taka Ishii -- it's located in the south of Kyoto, near Kyoto station. Once you walk in, you're confronted by a work by Nawa Kohei. This place means business. Complete with lounge with DJ booth, art gallery and restaurant, this place is for hipsters who need a place to crash. Off season prices start at a very reasonable 4,000 yen for a single room. If there's two of you, be sure to ask for the 2nd floor rooms with terrace tables. The restaurant serves very very reasonable food, and good too. The house wine, Washington Hills was excellent.

Beer Garden!

One of the rites of summer in Kyoto is the beer garden. Held at rooftops around the city, they are not just another excuse to drink (although one can never have enough), but sitting high up looking down at the city, they are a way to escape the brutal summer heat and humidity. But beer gardens can be over priced with awful food. One of the better choices is KIEV, a Russian restaurant right across from Minami-za theatre (Kawabata/Shijo), 6th floor. For 3,500 yen you get 2 hours of open bar service and a selection of food to keep you going (peroshiki, cabbage rolls, sausage and fries, etc...). Escape the Kyoto heat to Russia! 

Escape to Shozan-kaku

Tired of the usual sights? Gion, Nishijin, Pontocho? Been there, done that? For those looking for an escape and just exclusivity, go to Shozankaku 松山閣 in northwest Kyoto. I won't bother listing directions because it's literally at the foot of a mountain, bordering Arashiyama. Located in a beautifully manicured garden -- no mountain -- Shozankaku specializes in Kyoto cuisine and yuba. They even have their own yuba factory. With branches at Kyoto station and Nagoya, Shozankaku serves top quality food  and the main branch, featured here also has accommodation. We savored our lunch, sipping sake, while looking out at the mountains. Doesn't get better than that, does it?

300 yen all drinks!

(Unfortunately 300 yen per Night has closed and is looking for a new location)

So you're downtown Kyoto, tired and hot from shopping on Kawaramachi or Teramachi and just dying for a drink but don't want to go through the hassle of waiting for a table and dealing with incompetent waiters. Answer: 300 per Night. Set up like a Western pub, all drinks (and food) are 300 yen! (Well, okay, 99% of the menu is.) You pay with pre-paid tickets (minimum purchase of 3) which you can use anytime. Literally, it cannot be easier (or cheaper). Yes, for the price of 1 Starbucks coffee you can get a beer! Wednesdays are ladies night, all you can drink for the insane price of 1,000 yen! Fridays, non-Japanese get 1 sparkling wine free. Best of all, mention EDK and get 1 free drink! 

Tofu delight - Gion Okuoka

People often ask where to go to for reasonable kaiseki (formal Japanese cuisine) and EDK always points them to Gion Okuoka (3 blocks south of Shijo on Higashioji, west side). Their dinner courses won't break the bank and owner, Okuoka-san is one of the friendliest chefs in town. Pictured here is their hiki-age yuba, a fantastic dish full of drama because you make it yourself! Yuba is literally the top skin of a pot of cooked soy bean soup kinda pot. After it's lit, wait 2 minutes or so, then scoop up your yuba! Dip it in the ta-re sauce, and you're ready to good. Great summer lunches as well - cold green tea soba noodles! 

Binza - Chinese for Chinese

Let's face it, Chinese food in Japan is disappointing. Over-priced and full of odd dishes like "tenshin-han", it certainly isn't the "can't lose" option you have in other countries. One place you can rely on is Binza (one block north of Sanjo/Higashioji). Modestly and oddly decorated as most good Chinese restaurants are, Binza has the unstoppable combination of bad service and good food. And they also have insane deals like a 3,990 yen all you can eat and drink deal for 2 hours! Totally insane. Be sure to try the mouth-watering sweet and sour pork (northeast China style) featured here and tofu salad. Two thumbs up.

Shandiz - Oasis in Kyoto

Sometimes you just need to get away from all the sashimi and tofu. In times like these, go to Shandiz (one block north of Sanjo, Karamachi, turn right). Featuring Persian food (Iran, Turkey, Azerbaijan), Shandiz halal meat and is of course famous for kebabs, not to mention stews. Turkish beer also available! 

Columbo on Kawaramachi

On Kawaramachi north of Nijo, west side, is Columbo, a small Italian restaurant that serves no-pretense good food. Memorable was the wine from Shiga prefecture (yes, Shiga!) shown here. Great, bold Chardonnay. Besides the pasta and main dishes, they have a good appetizer set for those who just want to drink and pick at something. 

Akibako Hanare - Wine by the river

If you need a place for a quiet drink in the middle of Gion and don't have your gold card with you, Akibako is the place. The name literally means "empty box" and the bar appears to be built almost entirely of wine crates. Excellent location too, right by the Shirakawa stream. Wines by the bottle from 3,000 yen. You can't go wrong.

Kiev - Russian adventure in Kyoto

Across the street from the famous Minami-za theatre is not where you'd expect to find a Russian restaurant. But on the 6F of Oto building is 40 year old Kiev, a gastronomic institution in Kyoto. Strongly recommend the cabbage rolls! For the adventurous, try the Ukraine red wine. 

Cafe Lucca - Oasis in downtown Kyoto

Right off of the Teramachi shopping street downtown is Cafe Lucca (Rokkaku/Shingyokuku), named after the Italian town. If you need a break from the shopping and hordes of people, this is where you need to go! Beer and wine menu available and open late.

La Masa - Flaming Shrimps

Here's owner Kinoshita-san doing a nice photo bomb of our shrimp ajillo. The raw oysters were also divine. La Masa is the first of four Spanish restaurant he runs, the other being El Fogon, La Gallega and Fuigo. Each has its own atmosphere and flavour, but La Masa's cozy atmosphere and a loyal group of regulars make it a classic. Great ajillo too!

Yuuki 遊亀

The name literally means "playful turtle" but Yuuki, located in the heart of the Gion entertainment district, serves a variety of seafood, mostly fried or tempura style. Great place to experience a traditional "izakaya" atmosphere (1st floor recommended), not to mention excellent dishes that won't blow a hole in your wallet.  This is notable considering Yuuki's central location. The menu is literally written on the walls, and the sake list is extensive.

Ikariya Shokudo イカリヤ食堂

Kiyamachi south of Shijo is fast-becoming the place to go for good food without all of the neon signage and groups of students you find north of Shijo. Traditional machiya townhouses still line the streets and, more often than not, that house either bars or restaurant. Ikariya Shokudo, just opened on April 1st, will no doubt be on our all star list. Friendly and bilingual staff, combined with an extensive wine list and food to match make for a tempting combination. Be sure to try to the pan fried shrimp  (above) and the foie gras pate (below). Outside patio dining will be open on May 1st. We'll definitely be there! (Ikariya Shokudo is located about 150m south of Shijo on Kiyamachi, east side. Look for the anchor!)

Monthly Jazz at the Hosomi Museum

Every third Thursday you can enjoy jazz concerts along with dinner at Cafe Cube in the Hosomi Museum! Check the cafe for details on musicians and charges. 

Butterfly - Kyoto Newest Dance Club

For those looking for night life, check out Butterfly, right by Sanjo-Kawaramachi. Butterfly is set up perfectly for party-goers: large dance floor, island bar, VIP rooms and clean washrooms. The lighting, especially at the entrance, makes it feel like out of this world.

For more information, see article in Kansai Scene here.

Sumi-yaki Akari: Yakitori with wine

Near the south west corner of the Imperial gardens is Sumi-yaki Akari, a yakitori restaurant set up for wine lovers. While most yakitori venues feature mostly beer and shochu, here you can enjoy an extensive wine list of mostly European wines, including sparkling. The menu is also geared for towards the wine, including (above) chicken skin and mushroom, sprinkled with parmesan. Below: pickled asparagus and mushrooms. (Located just south of Marutamachi on Teramachi, near Screen hotel)

Sakamichi - Sake delight / Teppen ramen

For sake connoisseurs nearby Kyoto University, there is Sakamichi. Run by an enthusiastic young owner, Koyama-san, there is sake for almost every palette. And nothing goes better with sake than sashimi which Koyama-san beautifully prepares. Love the wine glasses used for sake too.

Just 2 min east of Sakamichi is Teppen, famous for their Kyoto-style shio-ramen (salt stock ramen). The light broth is topped off generously with green onion and niku dango (meat balls). Not too overwhelming, nice way to end the evening.

INSPIRE JAPAN

EDK was proud to sponsor INSPIRE JAPAN Pecha Kucha Night Kyoto vol.3, a charity presentation event for areas affected by the Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. All proceeds will go to Architecture for Humanity which uses design solutions to help communities rebuild. Nearly 100 cities around the world held INSPIRE JAPAN events on the same day, April 16th. Thanks to all who attended. See the event again on USTREAM.

Cherry Blossom Party - Kyo-ryori Isobe

Kyo-ryori Isobe is a traditional Kyoto-style kaiseki restaurant located within Maruyama park and features special seating for cherry blossom viewing. The deep fried yuba (tofu skin) was delicious as well as the sashimi. 

Maruyama park is the most popular place for company workers to hold their cherry blossom parties. At night, there are dozens of food stalls that serve everything from taiyaki (sweet bean fish cakes) and takoyaki (octopus balls). The main attraction of the park is the giant cherry tree which is lit up while in bloom. Absolutely magical. 

For photos of Kyo-ryori Isobe, please click here:

http://www.kyoryori-isobe.co.jp/tenpo/index.html

Traditional Ryotei Tokan-so

Update: Dinner at Tokan-so with Satono and Marufuku from Miyagawa-cho. Very charming.

Visitors looking for exclusive Kyoto dining experiences often turn to ryotei, traditional gourmet restaurants that once catered only to the elite. Ryotei now, however, are accessible by all and make for an elegant way to appreciate Japanese cuisine and hospitality. Tokan-so, located north of Maruyama park is one of the picturesque, situated right at the foot of the eastern hills. And with kaiseki dinner courses from 8,000 yen, you don't have to be a CEO to enter. Ryotei are usually associated with geisha houses as well and can arrange a private performance by a geisha or maiko (geisha in training). Now that's an experience!

Singing Around the Table at Irish Pub Gnome

Kyoto resident Felicity Greenland had her most recent "Singing Around the Table" session at Gnome, an Irish pub located near the Nijo-Kawaramachi intersection. Felicity and band plays traditional British, Irish and Japanese songs and all are welcome to join in, lyric sheets in hand. Song numbers included "Danny Boy", "Que Sera Sera" and the Pogues' "Dirty Old Town". With Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, the evening makes for a very Irish experience.