February 20, 2012

Oldest Restaurant in Kyoto! (Kaiseki)

It's not everyday that you visit a restaurant that dates from the 8th century (yes, that's 1,300 years ago), but apparently the Heihachi Tea House 平八茶屋 in northeastern Kyoto traces its history back to the Heian period. Located between Mt. Hiei and the Takano river, the tea house served as a resting point and lodging for those traveling to Kyoto. This is the reason it is famous for its kama-buro sauna, known for its medicinal benefits.  It now also features a strolling garden, accommodation and dining facilities. 

View of garden

View of pond under sauna

Sauna entrance

The kama-buro is a small ceramic "chamber" where 3-4 people can lie down. The heat (traditionally from burning pine wood) comes from beneath the floor. It isn't extremely hot, so the your body gradually loosens with the gradual warmth. This is only kama-buro left of its kind in Kyoto and can be still experienced before or after your meal. 

With such a long history, there are plenty of stories to tell. Rai Sanyo, the famous poet-scholar left a poem describing the pleasure of the inn in 1820, while the location served as a secret headquarter for Imperial loyalists at the end of the Edo period. Attacks by the Shinsengumi (samurai) have left sword cuts on some pillars that are still visible today. The inn was also frequented by writer Soseki Natsume. 


While the inn was famous for its tea and tororo (ground mountain potato), it now serves traditional Kyoto cuisine and nabe (hot pots). There are both Japanese-style and table seating in private dining rooms. With views of the Takano river, it really is an elegant way to enjoy your lunch. Lunch sets start from 3,000 yen while full course dinners are priced up to 26,000 yen.