Going Old School (Japanese)

Sometimes you just need good, old-school Japanese food. And understatement is the norm. Kashin (佳辰) just south of Kyoto sta (Hachijo exit) looks like a private home from the outside. Inside, there is a private room, counter seating and  a couple of tables , nothing special. The other customers all look like regulars. But the food is straight up great kyo-ryori (Kyoto cuisine). A 5,000 yen course includes: sashimi, raw tofu, grilled fish, tempura, a boiled dish, and rice. The tastes are subtle and it's not cheap, but sometimes you just need to reset your palate. 

Oldest Restaurant in Kyoto! (Kaiseki)

It's not everyday that you visit a restaurant that dates from the 8th century (yes, that's 1,300 years ago), but apparently the Heihachi Tea House 平八茶屋 in northeastern Kyoto traces its history back to the Heian period. Located between Mt. Hiei and the Takano river, the tea house served as a resting point and lodging for those traveling to Kyoto. This is the reason it is famous for its kama-buro sauna, known for its medicinal benefits.  It now also features a strolling garden, accommodation and dining facilities. 

View of garden

View of pond under sauna

Sauna entrance

The kama-buro is a small ceramic "chamber" where 3-4 people can lie down. The heat (traditionally from burning pine wood) comes from beneath the floor. It isn't extremely hot, so the your body gradually loosens with the gradual warmth. This is only kama-buro left of its kind in Kyoto and can be still experienced before or after your meal. 

With such a long history, there are plenty of stories to tell. Rai Sanyo, the famous poet-scholar left a poem describing the pleasure of the inn in 1820, while the location served as a secret headquarter for Imperial loyalists at the end of the Edo period. Attacks by the Shinsengumi (samurai) have left sword cuts on some pillars that are still visible today. The inn was also frequented by writer Soseki Natsume. 

While the inn was famous for its tea and tororo (ground mountain potato), it now serves traditional Kyoto cuisine and nabe (hot pots). There are both Japanese-style and table seating in private dining rooms. With views of the Takano river, it really is an elegant way to enjoy your lunch. Lunch sets start from 3,000 yen while full course dinners are priced up to 26,000 yen. 

Puff, puff, puffer fish! (Fugu)

Big Macs may get you over time, but there are few dishes that can kill you in one go. Welcome to Japan. Welcome to fugu (puffer fish). Fugu has been a delicacy that requires its poisonous liver to be removed by a professional before consumption. Every year amateur fisherman catch fugu and, in their excitement, try to prepare the fish themselves, often with tragic results.

But enough of the doom and gloom. Fugu is delicious. But it's an acquired taste. The meat is clear, almost transparent and has a subtle taste that may require years of living in Japan to appreciate. It's most often eaten raw, grilled, deep fried or in a hot pot (nabe)

Recently, the annual "fugu fest" at Wakamatsu shuten（若松酒店）was held, a wonderful alcohol shop during the day turned fugu restaurant at night. Course features fugu sashimi (tessa), grill fugu, fugu nabe (tecchiri) and finishes with rice porridge and hira-sake (fugu fin in hot sake). Fugu is best in winter and certainly something to look forward to after the new year festivities. We love fugu.

Good Relations (French)

Add another to the great-French-but-reasonable-and-not-snobby list. French bistro Relation is located near Kyoto city hall and serves no-nonsense French bistro cooking with generous portions. A dinner course starts at 3,100 yen and includes your choice of appetizer, main dish, dessert and tea/coffee. Can't complain there! Pictured below are foie gras with scallops and duck on salad.