Café Liberté (French)

Went to Gosho to enjoy the weather and forgot your picnic? Don’t want yet another conbini onigiri?

Café Liberté (Teramachi/Nijo) is here to liberate you with simple yet authentic French food – and for excellent value too.

Lunch consists of 5 – 6 starters and main courses, featuring French classics such as quiche and confit de canard. For best value, choose one of the two plats du jour, which include a main, a salad, and bread, for a reasonable 1000 yen.

There is also a selection of baguettes which can be combined with a soup and salad or a pommes-frites and drink set. The baguette is really authentic and all the fillings are fresh and tasty. Furthermore, they’re not drowning in mayonnaise or a suspiciously sweet sauce, as so often found in Japanese sandwiches.

For those who want take-away, there’s a bakery which offers a variety of sandwiches and pastries, including some crisp pain au chocolat.

On my last visit, I took the hamburger-steak cooked in a red wine sauce. I’ll let you judge from the photo. But yes, it was very good. 

P. Amoroso

Very Berry Café (Cafe)

It’s 30 degrees and 120% humidity. After all those hours in an office, you decided that you had to make the most of the weather. But after sitting in Gosho and poaching yourself in your own sweat, you’re not quite sure you made the right decision.

Have no fear. A short walk southwards down Kawaramachi Dori will take you to the cool Very Berry Café (Kawaramachi/Nijo). The café gets little direct sunlight, which means it’s cool.  But it’s also cool. There are low-slung leather sofas, eclectic tables interspersed with American paraphernalia – from Star Wars to rows of Mr Potato Heads, and from Popeye to Hawaiian themed goods, including what looks like a surfboard shrine. Which makes paying 900+ yen for an ice-cream sundae seem like a great idea.

Fortunately, their sundaes are really tasty. And you’re not going to deny yourself one on a day like that. 

P. Amoroso

Banda no Hana (Cafe)

Spam. Rice. Match made in heaven. Go to Banda no Handa (Kitashirawaka/Kuramaguchi) for supersize spam onigiri. Perfect way to finish your meal! 

Akatsuki Ramen (Ramen)

Akatsuki ramen (Kitashirakawa/Mikage)... kara-age set was a bit too much to eat. Definitely can't do the rice + ramen combo. But great ramen!

Tsubame Hall (Bar)

Tsubame Hall (Hyakumanben) - Open late and full of people who drink and smoke. This egg was really really good.

Senryu (Chinese)

Senryu (Horikawa/Nakadachiuri). Chinese food in Kyoto can be pretty bad, but this isn't. No fuss -- and cheap.

ETW (Cafe / Gallery)

A question I often hear is, "Where is a good club in Kyoto?" While the Japanese government seems to be hellbent on closing down all kinds of night life with their recent law that prevents dancing after 1am (no joke), the clubs have been closing down one by one in Kyoto. One that remains is Metro, located inside Keihan Marutamachi station. So you've just spent a long night dancing to obscure UK music, breathing in second hand smoke, and you just want a place to chill out and have a drink. Easy. Just go to the second floor, where ETW is (pronounced E-TOW-WA). 

 Atmosphere is very chill out and decor is impeccable. Drinks of all varieties are available, as well as food. Beer on tap is Suntory Malts, a nice choice. Try the sauteed enoki mushrooms on bagette. Very nice. Main dishes to satisfy any appetite can also be ordered. 

 Most of the art in the cafe is by manager Ryo-chan, a talent illustrator/artist. They also sell select goods by other artists. Open late, ETW is a perfect place to hang out after the after-after party or before dinner. 

 Manager Ryo-chan

What is wine without water?

Taste of Thai (Thai food)

South of Kawaramachi-Gojo is not normally where you would expect to go for dinner, but Ban Thai was a pleasant surprise. Perfect for lunch, sets go for 850 yen. The pho noodles pictured below was pretty authentic, even with real BBQ pork (yes). The menu is extensive, and I'll definitely be back for the soft shell crab dishes. Soft shell crab in Kyoto! Imagine that. The restaurant is spacious and has a distinctive Bangkok feel. All the staff are Thai as well. While Thai restaurants in Kyoto have tended to be a bit formal with proper cutlery, a boom in casual "food stall" type restaurants is taking place. Asian food as it should be - good and cheap!  

Going Old School (Japanese)

Sometimes you just need good, old-school Japanese food. And understatement is the norm. Kashin (佳辰) just south of Kyoto sta (Hachijo exit) looks like a private home from the outside. Inside, there is a private room, counter seating and  a couple of tables , nothing special. The other customers all look like regulars. But the food is straight up great kyo-ryori (Kyoto cuisine). A 5,000 yen course includes: sashimi, raw tofu, grilled fish, tempura, a boiled dish, and rice. The tastes are subtle and it's not cheap, but sometimes you just need to reset your palate. 

Oldest Restaurant in Kyoto! (Kaiseki)

It's not everyday that you visit a restaurant that dates from the 8th century (yes, that's 1,300 years ago), but apparently the Heihachi Tea House 平八茶屋 in northeastern Kyoto traces its history back to the Heian period. Located between Mt. Hiei and the Takano river, the tea house served as a resting point and lodging for those traveling to Kyoto. This is the reason it is famous for its kama-buro sauna, known for its medicinal benefits.  It now also features a strolling garden, accommodation and dining facilities. 

View of garden

View of pond under sauna

Sauna entrance

The kama-buro is a small ceramic "chamber" where 3-4 people can lie down. The heat (traditionally from burning pine wood) comes from beneath the floor. It isn't extremely hot, so the your body gradually loosens with the gradual warmth. This is only kama-buro left of its kind in Kyoto and can be still experienced before or after your meal. 

With such a long history, there are plenty of stories to tell. Rai Sanyo, the famous poet-scholar left a poem describing the pleasure of the inn in 1820, while the location served as a secret headquarter for Imperial loyalists at the end of the Edo period. Attacks by the Shinsengumi (samurai) have left sword cuts on some pillars that are still visible today. The inn was also frequented by writer Soseki Natsume. 

While the inn was famous for its tea and tororo (ground mountain potato), it now serves traditional Kyoto cuisine and nabe (hot pots). There are both Japanese-style and table seating in private dining rooms. With views of the Takano river, it really is an elegant way to enjoy your lunch. Lunch sets start from 3,000 yen while full course dinners are priced up to 26,000 yen. 

Puff, puff, puffer fish! (Fugu)

Big Macs may get you over time, but there are few dishes that can kill you in one go. Welcome to Japan. Welcome to fugu (puffer fish). Fugu has been a delicacy that requires its poisonous liver to be removed by a professional before consumption. Every year amateur fisherman catch fugu and, in their excitement, try to prepare the fish themselves, often with tragic results.

But enough of the doom and gloom. Fugu is delicious. But it's an acquired taste. The meat is clear, almost transparent and has a subtle taste that may require years of living in Japan to appreciate. It's most often eaten raw, grilled, deep fried or in a hot pot (nabe)

Recently, the annual "fugu fest" at Wakamatsu shuten（若松酒店）was held, a wonderful alcohol shop during the day turned fugu restaurant at night. Course features fugu sashimi (tessa), grill fugu, fugu nabe (tecchiri) and finishes with rice porridge and hira-sake (fugu fin in hot sake). Fugu is best in winter and certainly something to look forward to after the new year festivities. We love fugu.

Good Relations (French)

Add another to the great-French-but-reasonable-and-not-snobby list. French bistro Relation is located near Kyoto city hall and serves no-nonsense French bistro cooking with generous portions. A dinner course starts at 3,100 yen and includes your choice of appetizer, main dish, dessert and tea/coffee. Can't complain there! Pictured below are foie gras with scallops and duck on salad.

A Good Walk Ruined .. Kind of. (Golf food)

If you have golfed in Japan, you'll know it's a different kind of animal than that in the West. Namely, the "posh" element is magnified ten fold here. Most golf courses feature a long roadway to the club house ala Augusta. When you enter, you're required to "sign in", filling out a form with private details such as address and phone number. This isn't a hotel! But it looks like one. And it also tastes like one. After 9 holes (sometimes with a caddie who reads your putts and gives you yardages), you take a nice 40 some odd minute break for lunch. This is eaten not at a hotdog stand, but a full-fledged restaurant. You can choose anything from ramen noodles to steak to sashimi. Everything is immaculate, including the service. There are no beverage vans on the course in Japan. People drink in style at lunch, real draft beer or wine. No wonder my back nine score is always worst. But there is always the hot bath to look forward to (they don't do showers here) (photos: above BBQ pork ramen set / below: anago tempura on rice set)

Kyoto Unagi Okowa (eel)

Every year the Kyoto Design Association holds the Kyoto Design Award, celebrating design excellence in a variety of field from architecture to package design. The 2011 Grand Prize winner was Nanasada co. ltd's Unagi Okowa packaging. (Okowa is rice mixed with a variety of vegetables and ingredients.) Beautifully packaged in bite-sized portions, the paper case looks like traditional wooden boxes that sushi used to come in. This version of okowa is with unagi (eel) and was absolutely delicious. Great for picnics! 

Shozan-kaku Ryotei (Kyo-ryori Kaiseki)

The expression "out of this world" takes on a different meaning at Shozan-kaku 松山閣. Located a good 30 minute drive from downtown Kyoto in the northwest mountains, the restaurant is situated literally on the side of a mountain. After entering the gate, the strolling path under the maple and cherry trees, immediately lets you forget the world you left behind. EDK featured a "autumn yuba lunch" this month, visiting Shozan-kaku's own tofu and yuba factory and enjoying a kaiseki lunch featuring tofu fresh out of the factory. Highlights were not just the fabulous kaiseki cuisine with sake, but also the autumn leaves that were in peak colours. 

With owner Matsuyama-san (bottom right)

View of mountains along path

Hiki-age yuba (fresh yuba) in traditional "oke" bucket

Ode to the Bento

When you mention "bento" to ex-pats in Japan, most will think of 399 yen fried chicken boxes at the local convenience (and there are many!). Yet, there is a whole different level to bento, the traditional kaiseki bento. Like a kaiseki meal, these bento usually include items that are prepared in a variety of ways: raw (sashimi), boiled, fried, pickled, etc... This one pictured above sells for 2,800 yen from Rakusei Okada in Western Kyoto. Definitely no "conbini" bento" No plastic here. All real ceramic ware delivered and picked up later. A feast for the eyes and mouth!    

Regions of taste (French)

Carrying on from Amore Kiyamachi, here's another restaurant that doesn't put up any pretenses. Situated in a modestly decorated space, French restaurant Region (Takatsuji/Takakura) is all about the food. Classically presented with generous portions, each dish is packed with flavour. Best of all, the prices are won't damage your wallet. There is even a dinner course for under 3,000 yen. Owned by a husband and wife team, the place has an intimate vibe with reliable service. Excellent wine as well. Classic French dishes.

Amore Amore (Italian)

Italian food in Kyoto can be either too stuffy or too cheap, like a family restaurant. Amore Kiyamachi (Kiyamachi/Takatsuji) strikes the perfect balance. Complete with a private verandah facing the Kamogawa rice, the front room is more casual with stools and tables for large groups or those popping in for a snack. The back room offers more privacy yet still has an edge with the rough white tables. There is also a large room upstairs for private parties. The food is also no nonsense, no fuss. Definitely recommend the appetizer platter (shown above), conveniently portioned according to number of guests. This is so Kyoto in a way, the insistence of variety and quality over quantity. The pizzas are wood fired and some of the best in Kyoto. 

So hip it hurts (hotel dining)

The concept of boutique hotels, believe it or not, is still relatively new to Kyoto. Often called "designer hotels" they are slowly springing up in the city. The latest is Ante Room, just opened in April of this year. Like many of the hottest art galleries in the city -- Kodama gallery, Koyama Tomio, Taka Ishii -- it's located in the south of Kyoto, near Kyoto station. Once you walk in, you're confronted by a work by Nawa Kohei. This place means business. Complete with lounge with DJ booth, art gallery and restaurant, this place is for hipsters who need a place to crash. Off season prices start at a very reasonable 4,000 yen for a single room. If there's two of you, be sure to ask for the 2nd floor rooms with terrace tables. The restaurant serves very very reasonable food, and good too. The house wine, Washington Hills was excellent.

Beer Garden!

One of the rites of summer in Kyoto is the beer garden. Held at rooftops around the city, they are not just another excuse to drink (although one can never have enough), but sitting high up looking down at the city, they are a way to escape the brutal summer heat and humidity. But beer gardens can be over priced with awful food. One of the better choices is KIEV, a Russian restaurant right across from Minami-za theatre (Kawabata/Shijo), 6th floor. For 3,500 yen you get 2 hours of open bar service and a selection of food to keep you going (peroshiki, cabbage rolls, sausage and fries, etc...). Escape the Kyoto heat to Russia!