A Good Walk Ruined .. Kind of. (Golf food)

If you have golfed in Japan, you'll know it's a different kind of animal than that in the West. Namely, the "posh" element is magnified ten fold here. Most golf courses feature a long roadway to the club house ala Augusta. When you enter, you're required to "sign in", filling out a form with private details such as address and phone number. This isn't a hotel! But it looks like one. And it also tastes like one. After 9 holes (sometimes with a caddie who reads your putts and gives you yardages), you take a nice 40 some odd minute break for lunch. This is eaten not at a hotdog stand, but a full-fledged restaurant. You can choose anything from ramen noodles to steak to sashimi. Everything is immaculate, including the service. There are no beverage vans on the course in Japan. People drink in style at lunch, real draft beer or wine. No wonder my back nine score is always worst. But there is always the hot bath to look forward to (they don't do showers here) (photos: above BBQ pork ramen set / below: anago tempura on rice set)

Kyoto Unagi Okowa (eel)

Every year the Kyoto Design Association holds the Kyoto Design Award, celebrating design excellence in a variety of field from architecture to package design. The 2011 Grand Prize winner was Nanasada co. ltd's Unagi Okowa packaging. (Okowa is rice mixed with a variety of vegetables and ingredients.) Beautifully packaged in bite-sized portions, the paper case looks like traditional wooden boxes that sushi used to come in. This version of okowa is with unagi (eel) and was absolutely delicious. Great for picnics! 

Shozan-kaku Ryotei (Kyo-ryori Kaiseki)

The expression "out of this world" takes on a different meaning at Shozan-kaku 松山閣. Located a good 30 minute drive from downtown Kyoto in the northwest mountains, the restaurant is situated literally on the side of a mountain. After entering the gate, the strolling path under the maple and cherry trees, immediately lets you forget the world you left behind. EDK featured a "autumn yuba lunch" this month, visiting Shozan-kaku's own tofu and yuba factory and enjoying a kaiseki lunch featuring tofu fresh out of the factory. Highlights were not just the fabulous kaiseki cuisine with sake, but also the autumn leaves that were in peak colours. 

With owner Matsuyama-san (bottom right)

View of mountains along path

Hiki-age yuba (fresh yuba) in traditional "oke" bucket

Ode to the Bento

When you mention "bento" to ex-pats in Japan, most will think of 399 yen fried chicken boxes at the local convenience (and there are many!). Yet, there is a whole different level to bento, the traditional kaiseki bento. Like a kaiseki meal, these bento usually include items that are prepared in a variety of ways: raw (sashimi), boiled, fried, pickled, etc... This one pictured above sells for 2,800 yen from Rakusei Okada in Western Kyoto. Definitely no "conbini" bento" No plastic here. All real ceramic ware delivered and picked up later. A feast for the eyes and mouth!    

Regions of taste (French)

Carrying on from Amore Kiyamachi, here's another restaurant that doesn't put up any pretenses. Situated in a modestly decorated space, French restaurant Region (Takatsuji/Takakura) is all about the food. Classically presented with generous portions, each dish is packed with flavour. Best of all, the prices are won't damage your wallet. There is even a dinner course for under 3,000 yen. Owned by a husband and wife team, the place has an intimate vibe with reliable service. Excellent wine as well. Classic French dishes.

Amore Amore (Italian)

Italian food in Kyoto can be either too stuffy or too cheap, like a family restaurant. Amore Kiyamachi (Kiyamachi/Takatsuji) strikes the perfect balance. Complete with a private verandah facing the Kamogawa rice, the front room is more casual with stools and tables for large groups or those popping in for a snack. The back room offers more privacy yet still has an edge with the rough white tables. There is also a large room upstairs for private parties. The food is also no nonsense, no fuss. Definitely recommend the appetizer platter (shown above), conveniently portioned according to number of guests. This is so Kyoto in a way, the insistence of variety and quality over quantity. The pizzas are wood fired and some of the best in Kyoto. 

So hip it hurts (hotel dining)

The concept of boutique hotels, believe it or not, is still relatively new to Kyoto. Often called "designer hotels" they are slowly springing up in the city. The latest is Ante Room, just opened in April of this year. Like many of the hottest art galleries in the city -- Kodama gallery, Koyama Tomio, Taka Ishii -- it's located in the south of Kyoto, near Kyoto station. Once you walk in, you're confronted by a work by Nawa Kohei. This place means business. Complete with lounge with DJ booth, art gallery and restaurant, this place is for hipsters who need a place to crash. Off season prices start at a very reasonable 4,000 yen for a single room. If there's two of you, be sure to ask for the 2nd floor rooms with terrace tables. The restaurant serves very very reasonable food, and good too. The house wine, Washington Hills was excellent.